Many Southeast Asian recipes strive to balance four of the sensations of taste: sweet, sour, salty, and umami. In its classic Lao or Thai version, green papaya salad—known as tam som in Laos and som tam in Thailand—has all these characteristics; the unripe papaya is sour, the palm sugar is sweet, the dried shrimp is salty, and the tomatoes and fish sauce bring the umami. Green papaya aids digestion, soothes inflammation, and even helps battle nausea. For an update of the traditional salad, I replaced the peanuts with my favorite Marcona almonds. If you’re sensitive to nightshades, omit the chiles and tomatoes.